Widforss Trail at the North Rim equals delightful solitude

SOLITUDE at even the North Rim of the Grand Canyon can be hard to find these days.  Yes, the South Rim is way overrun and crowded with visitors, yet the North Rim can sometimes feel overrun as well.

One possible solution is the Widforss Trail.

Located as a turnoff the main road to the west, just before the North Kaibab trail parking lot, this is a 0.6 of a mile dirt road that leads to the trail's parking lot. The turnoff the main road is signed.

(Look for the parking lot, as the dirt road continues well past the trailhead.)

The trail is a maximum 5 miles long, one-way, but after 2.5 miles it goes into the deep forest before emerging with the final Grand Canyon view.

The trail climbs steeply for the first 1/2 mile, but resides in a cool forest of pines and aspens. It offers a variety of viewpoints into the Grand Canyon without a crowds. For as short as 3 miles, one could see a worthwhile viewpoint.

Even the San Francisco Mountains are visible at these viewpoints along the trail.

There is a restroom in the parking lot, but no water available.

The trail is named for Gunnar Widforss, a parks employee who loved painting scenes of the canyon in this area during the 1930s.

The legacy of the Grand Canyon’s Roaring Springs – Water salvation with a giant cave

 

ROARING SPRINGS is the reliable source of water that keeps visitors quenched at both the North and South Rims of the Grand Canyon.

Today, if many people think of a cave in the Grand Canyon, they may actually envision Grand Canyon Caverns, located along High 66, southwest of today’s Grand Canyon village.

However, “Cave of vast size is found in Grand Canyon” was an April 11, 1928 headline in the Tucson Citizen newspaper.

This cave was actually Roaring Springs.

Three workmen employed on building a water pumping station for the new lodge being built atop the North Rim went inside the cave for an estimated two miles. They only turned back, because a boat was needed to go deeper inside the mountain.

                                          The Roaring Springs sign at the North Rim.

“Roaring Springs emerges from openings in the cliffs and the water cascades down in falls,” the story stated.

One of the apertures is large enough to permit a man access and Bill Denson of South Dakota went inside with a small flashlight. Seeing vast spaces and tunnels inside, he returned outside to tell co-workers, Mack Jensen of Toquerville, Utah and Paul Swain of Salt Lake City, what he had seen. The three secured gasoline lanterns and extra fuel bottles and went exploring inside for four hours.

“There is a regular labyrinth of tunnels in there,” Jackson said. “And, we didn’t try to explore all of them.”

They found four connecting tunnels.

“At the place where these four tunnels come together, there’s a big river coming down one of them, dividing among the other three. These divide again and again, so that all the waterfalls you see in the canyon that we call Roaring Springs are just the ends of smaller tunnels. The one big creek supplies them all,” Jackson said.

One place, the walked along the river on a narrow ledge and estimated the water below to be at least 20 feet deep.

Finally, two miles in, they came to a large room filled entirely by the river.

“As far as we could see, the cave and the river got bigger and bigger. The river is too deep to wade and too cold to swim, or we would have gone further,” he said. “The inside of the cave is very beautiful. It is filled with stalactytes and stalagmites …”

The story concluded that since the caverns of Roaring Springs and so vital a natural resource to the area, that the National Park Service may prohibit future exploration inside.

It appears that is the case, about a century later.

The story also said some believe that there is a huge underground lake beneath the Kaibab Plateau and that is what fuels Roaring Springs.

There are no streams on the Kaibab Plateau, north of the Grand Canyon, and none on the South Rim either, as far away as to Flagstaff.  (There are some springs, though.)

That’s because the limestone rock below and many sink holes absorb almost all the surface water and take it underground.

Some tests in the 21^st Century have shown that as little as six days is all that was required for some rainwater on the Kaibab Plateau to exit through Roaring Springs.

A section of the trans-canyon pipeline from Roaring Springs, as it appears above Indian Gardens, along the Bright Angel Trail. Note how vulnerable the pipeline is.

The 12 or so miles of pipeline from Roaring Springs to Phantom Ranch suffer frequent leaks and breaks, whereas the pipeline across the Colorado River and up the South Rim are much more stable.

Roaring Springs supplies a vast majority of the water for both the North and South Rims.

Even as recent as the early fall of 2022 there was a brief stint of rationing water on the South Rim, when some breaks in the trans-canyon pipeline diminished the outgoing water supply.